Яндекс.Метрика СПбМСИ / she’d been surfing for only three years

she’d been surfing for only three years


After all, she’d been surfing for only three years. But she’d come thousands of miles from her home, in Rio de Janeiro, to get to this Hawaiian proving ground. As she paddled out on her 10 foot four inch surfboard to get into position to catch one of these monsters, Gabeira was equal parts fear and exhilaration.

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